Ancient History

In the Upper Valley of the river Aude, you can discover the winding course of the river which gave its name to the department. This is a region of gorges and dizzyingly high narrow passes; it offers a multitude of layers of varying landscapes from the wine-growing hillsides to the Pyrenean peaks. South of the town of Limoux, in the heart of an idyllic valley nestles the former administrative and episcopal capital of the Razès region: ALET LES BAINS. Alet has been a place of spiritual influence for 10 centuries and the ancient city never ceases to surprise those seeking treasures, culture and well-being

And guess who lived there?

The abbots succeeded each other at the head of the abbey until 1318, when Pope Jean XXII established the abbey in the Eveche. The abbey then became St. Mary’s Cathedral and Abbot Bartholomew became the first bishop of the Cathedral.

In the sixteenth century, the Wars of Religions will be right in the abbey of which there will remain only ruins. [aletlesbains.com]

Lunch at the Hostellerie de l’Eveche, under the massive ancient trees with my girl. Eased the early afternoon with exceptional food and carafes of fresh water in the 98 degree French heat [36 celsius].

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and so fun. To be back in my beloved Alet-les-Bains with Annie, showing her the history and ruins, the bells of the abbey, walking the medieval streets overtaken and occupied by the Nazis, the once walled city stands in tribute to the ancients and inquisitions that enfolds the village of 500 with energies and mysteries. After walking and exploring for hours, we needed fluids. Lots. Back to l’Eveche for l’eux, French Coca-Cola (our bodies were craving Coke, just like when in India), and Perrier, too. I think I was actually sloshing when we left. It helped. Then back to the main highway to catch our return bus to Limoux, where we bought more l’aux at the local market! :)

We toured the historic hotel, La Belle Aude. It was for sale three years ago, not sure of the status now.

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At the hotel there’s an old lemonade factory and thermal baths discovered by the Romans, using the healing waters of the community. So many ideas and marketing possibilities to buy and renovate the structure, for writers-in-residence and Cathar/sacred geometry mystery tours and study. It edges the River Aude under beautiful massive trees and ancient Roman baths.

Touring the abbey with my girl and absorbing the history, the faded blues, reds, and greens of the centuries old frescos. Indelible. As the massive deep bells rang we imagined the religious wars and destruction. Some captures to share from today.

Studying the history, imagining the people and the conflicts as they tried to practice their beliefs and live their lives in peace.

A standing stone as a grave marker in the ancient cemetery. Remarkably old.

Walked some more around the medieval square. J’adore every cobbled street and stone.

Yes, please. :)

Annie’s favorite. ♡

Depleted from the heat and leaning toward the time our bus would return, we headed across the fortified bridge out of the beau village.

https://aletlesbains.com

And then this evening from the balcony at 22 Maison, la lune approaching fullness as the swallows murmur and the frantic ducks make their demonic noises. (“Are those really ducks?”)

❀